Understanding of bone structure of the face for highlighting and shading

Highlighting and Shading the face

Everybody has different face shapes and unfortunate about the shape of their face but you are able to change this through concealing your face shape by highlighting and shaping the face, the are techniques easy if you know your facial shape. 

Here are the most common face shapes and the highlighting and shading have been added in to show you what we would hide and what we would bring out more onto the face to define it.

Highlighting - To highlight the face is the best features of your face as your standing it out more by using a lighter colour.

Shading - Shading is when you want to either enhance a bone or feature on the face to make it more defined or to hide features on the face you don't want to stand out.

Here are the different diagrams of face shapes,

the brown shows the shading and the nude shows the highlighting.

If I was to highlight and shade I would use this product which is Kryolan contouring kit, the product is like a foundation and gives a variety of tones for all different skin types.

Bone Structure 

This is all to do with understanding our bone structure and to know what certain bone on the face we want to bring out using highlighting and shading (for example the cheek bones/zygoma are a popular bone on the face most people bring out whilst highlighting and shading). Here's a diagram of all the bones and labelled on the face.

My extreme contouring 

So I tried out the 'extreme contouring' using the colour red as I wanted to try out something different. Here are the method, pictures, products and equipment I used to complete my look. 

Here is all the equipment and products I used:

-Kryolan grease paints pallet
-Kryolan blusher pallet 
-Illamasqua foundation base 
-Illasmasqua powder 
-Illamasqua powder puff
-Kryolan foundation brush
-Kryolan eyeshadow brush
-Kryolan blusher brush

Firstly I applied my highlighting on the face using the Illamasqua foundation base which I used my foundation brush to apply, here's an image on what areas I highlighted.

Then I added red shading to define my face shape, the things I shaded are the features of my face I want to enhance as this is extreme contouring and I want to make my face look fierce and sharp.

Here are the results off the shading, this was the first time off me completing a extreme contour look, for next time I will blend in more and not go over the top with the shading.

Here I have blended it in more and tided the highlighting and shading and it looks a lot more sharper and extreme.

Elizabeth Film Reviews

Elizabeth Film Reviews 

Elizabeth (1997)

Cate Blanchett

"A film of the early years of the reign of Elizabeth I of England and her difficult task of learning what is necessary to be a monarch".

Make-up and Hair Designer- Jenny Shircore 

Head Make-up Artist and Hair Stylist- Anita Burger 

Make-up Artists and Hair Stylists (On set)- Miranda Davidson, Karen Ferguson, Christine Greenwood, Lisa Pickering, Ivana Primorac, Christine Whitney and Suzanne Jansen.

Contact lens technician- Jemma Scott-Knox-Gore.

Contact lens Optician- Richard Glass.

Crowd Hair Stylist-Lucy Willis 

Special Effects Make-up Artist- Susan Howard.

Facial Hair Maker- Sarah Weatherburn.

Watching clips of the film I find the Cate 'Elizabeth' Make-up very natural, calm and beautiful showing early stages off her life. Elizabeth was very pale but had very clear skin which I personally think shows the sign of great beauty, she had beautiful long red hair which was naturally wavy. Through out the film the make-up artists show a clear indication of Elizabeth ageing as her hair was thinning out and one of the scenes you see her hair falling out as she brushes it. At the final scene of Elizabeth you see a great age difference from the beginning of the film and the way the make-up is applied as it shows heavier make-up, the hair stylist created a wig which was designed into a Elizabethan hair style but also to show her hair line had been brought more back onto the head. Think the make-up shows a great way on how Elizabeth looked back whilst she was on the throne of England.

Image Link - http://img2-1.timeinc.net/ew/i/2013/03/20/Elizabeth.jpg

Referencing - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/

Fire Over England (1973)

Flora Robson

"Queen Elizabeth is running this show. The men in her court should be thinking about how to add to the glory of the Elizabethan Age and how to foil those pesky Spanish who got far too much influence in England when her older sister Mary was on the throne after their father Henry VIII was succeeded by their sickly half brother. Elizabeth thinks Michael Ingolby can do great things. Michael is mostly thinking about one of Elizabeth's ladies in waiting, Cynthia. Soon his mind is on survival when Elizabeth sends him on a voyage to Spain".

Special Effects Artist - Renee Hulbert was responsible for the special effects of 1937 fire over England, the make-up artist is not to be known as I searched to find on the internet and nothing was to be found. 

In this film is was hard to judge the make-up as it was in black and white. But looking at the hairstyles was great in this film as it gave creative technical hairstyles which was Elizabeth thing back when she was the throne. I like the hairstyle which is created in this image I have chosen here as I think it shows royalty and sophistication which was Elizabeth's description on how she was as a queen. The prosthetic nose which was applied onto Elizabeth was applied on with great disguise as there was no sharp edges to the application. 

Research Links - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028872/ , http://www.themakeupgallery.info/character/cham/robson.htm, 

Youtube Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhVQeJDbrnY&list=PLEp3aiMkADcar9fOzS_PukaUMSh3uDs8J 

Image Link - http://static.guim.co.uk/sysimages/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2013/6/25/1372158425031/Fire-Over-England--009.jpg

The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939)

Bette Davis

"A depiction of the love/hate relationship between Queen Elizabeth I and Robert Devereux, the Earl of Essex".

Make-up Artist - Perc Westmore 

By watching clips of the film as I couldn't find the full film online I saw great make-up and hairstyles, In this image I think it shows great skill into wig work and how the curls are a constant size and shape and a lot of time and effort was taken into creating this hairstyle. This film was based on Elizabeth older generation. It shows she applied a lot of make-up as shown in the film, her eyebrows were thinned, pale skinned, minimal make-up on the eyes and red lipstick. This make-up showed the sign of power and that she was in good control of her country. 

Research Links -

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031826/fullcredits?ref_=tt_ov_st_sm

Youtube Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggGrMd4esfs

Image Links - 

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3HRh3uUgfqi969kzrUntGnwu_CUaiZCYPk-mXCih_5q0vT-zWig39JtYBD6LPwnk6iFrQ9NasgEUHZhhTDs5NSwN3ayISbF-876Tf59G4Pg8Qs_CJeiLWJDkJ9bCGPB0_osHPn0Jx_rw/s1600/Bette+Davis+as+Queen+Elizabeth+I.png

The Virgin Queen (Tv Series 2005)

Anne Marie Duff

"The Virgin Queen explores the full sweep of Elizabeth's life: from her days of fear as a potential victim of her sister's terror; through her great love affair with Robert Dudley; into her years of triumph over the Armada; and finally her old age and her last, enigmatic relationship with her young protégé, the Earl of Essex".

Make-up and Hair Designer - Karen Hartley 

Make-up Artist - Sjaan Gillings, Sophia Burnage, Maureen McGill and Laura Schiavo.

Special Effects Make-up Artist - Chris Lyons and Josh Weston

Prosthetic Make-up Artist - Victoria Bancroft, Neil Gorton and Kristyan Mallett.

Hair Stylist - Maureen McGill and Anna Morena.

Looking at the two images given it shows a great ageing difference. I think the make-up is similar to the film Elizabeth 1997, a very natural young Elizabeth grown into an older and a harsher make-up application a wig is applied to the older Elizabeth and her hair is more of an Elizabeth hairstyle with consist curls, shape and size on the front hairline of the image on the right.

Research Links - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0481459/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast

Image Link -http://www.bbc.co.uk/staticarchive/8865a2f671c8d8f790266eae971310183e9903b0.jpg

http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/24600000/The-Virgin-Queen-anne-marie-duff-24684745-203-250.jpg

Colour Theory & Wheel

Colour Theory

It is important for a make-up artist to have a good knowledge on colour theory in order to know how colours will effect one another by placing the colour next to the other colour, or the colour could be placed either on-top or underneath the colour and even how the colour will result in when you mix them together.

To make sure we have a clear understanding of the colour theory, we need the colour wheel. The colour wheel is a photographic support in helping us understand the value of colour and the colour theory.

• The colour wheel is allocated into three categories: Primary, Secondary, (or Intermediate), and Tertiary.   Primary: the three primary colours are: red, yellow, and blue. These colours are considered foundation colours because they are used to create all other colours.
•  Secondary (or intermediate): by combining two of the primary colours, three secondary colours are formed. For example, when you mix red with yellow, you will get an orange colour. The Secondary colours are: orange, green, and violet. 
•  Tertiary: the six tertiary colours are made by combining a primary and an adjacent secondary colour. These colours are: yellow – orange, orange – red, red – violet, violet – blue, blue – green and green – yellow.

       Colour Wheel

 Analogous colours are groups of colours that are together on the colour wheel, with one being the dominant colour, which tends to be a primary or secondary colour, and two on either side complementing, which tend to be tertiary.

Complementary colours are sets of colours that contrast with each other supplementary than any other colour, and when placed side-by-side make each other look lighter.

The monochromatic colour structure uses differences in lightness and saturation of one colour. This structure looks clean and elegant. Monochromatic colours go well together, producing a calm effect.

 Monochromatic is not Black and White (Grey-Scale values) which repeatedly gets mistaken. Black and white translation is officially called Achromatic.