Understanding of bone structure of the face for highlighting and shading

Highlighting and Shading the face

Everybody has different face shapes and unfortunate about the shape of their face but you are able to change this through concealing your face shape by highlighting and shaping the face, the are techniques easy if you know your facial shape. 

Here are the most common face shapes and the highlighting and shading have been added in to show you what we would hide and what we would bring out more onto the face to define it.

Highlighting - To highlight the face is the best features of your face as your standing it out more by using a lighter colour.

Shading - Shading is when you want to either enhance a bone or feature on the face to make it more defined or to hide features on the face you don't want to stand out.

Here are the different diagrams of face shapes,

the brown shows the shading and the nude shows the highlighting.

If I was to highlight and shade I would use this product which is Kryolan contouring kit, the product is like a foundation and gives a variety of tones for all different skin types.

Bone Structure 

This is all to do with understanding our bone structure and to know what certain bone on the face we want to bring out using highlighting and shading (for example the cheek bones/zygoma are a popular bone on the face most people bring out whilst highlighting and shading). Here's a diagram of all the bones and labelled on the face.

My extreme contouring 

So I tried out the 'extreme contouring' using the colour red as I wanted to try out something different. Here are the method, pictures, products and equipment I used to complete my look. 

Here is all the equipment and products I used:

-Kryolan grease paints pallet
-Kryolan blusher pallet 
-Illamasqua foundation base 
-Illasmasqua powder 
-Illamasqua powder puff
-Kryolan foundation brush
-Kryolan eyeshadow brush
-Kryolan blusher brush

Firstly I applied my highlighting on the face using the Illamasqua foundation base which I used my foundation brush to apply, here's an image on what areas I highlighted.

Then I added red shading to define my face shape, the things I shaded are the features of my face I want to enhance as this is extreme contouring and I want to make my face look fierce and sharp.

Here are the results off the shading, this was the first time off me completing a extreme contour look, for next time I will blend in more and not go over the top with the shading.

Here I have blended it in more and tided the highlighting and shading and it looks a lot more sharper and extreme.

Elizabeth Film Reviews

Elizabeth Film Reviews 

Elizabeth (1997)

Cate Blanchett

"A film of the early years of the reign of Elizabeth I of England and her difficult task of learning what is necessary to be a monarch".

Make-up and Hair Designer- Jenny Shircore 

Head Make-up Artist and Hair Stylist- Anita Burger 

Make-up Artists and Hair Stylists (On set)- Miranda Davidson, Karen Ferguson, Christine Greenwood, Lisa Pickering, Ivana Primorac, Christine Whitney and Suzanne Jansen.

Contact lens technician- Jemma Scott-Knox-Gore.

Contact lens Optician- Richard Glass.

Crowd Hair Stylist-Lucy Willis 

Special Effects Make-up Artist- Susan Howard.

Facial Hair Maker- Sarah Weatherburn.

Watching clips of the film I find the Cate 'Elizabeth' Make-up very natural, calm and beautiful showing early stages off her life. Elizabeth was very pale but had very clear skin which I personally think shows the sign of great beauty, she had beautiful long red hair which was naturally wavy. Through out the film the make-up artists show a clear indication of Elizabeth ageing as her hair was thinning out and one of the scenes you see her hair falling out as she brushes it. At the final scene of Elizabeth you see a great age difference from the beginning of the film and the way the make-up is applied as it shows heavier make-up, the hair stylist created a wig which was designed into a Elizabethan hair style but also to show her hair line had been brought more back onto the head. Think the make-up shows a great way on how Elizabeth looked back whilst she was on the throne of England.

Image Link - http://img2-1.timeinc.net/ew/i/2013/03/20/Elizabeth.jpg

Referencing - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0127536/

Fire Over England (1973)

Flora Robson

"Queen Elizabeth is running this show. The men in her court should be thinking about how to add to the glory of the Elizabethan Age and how to foil those pesky Spanish who got far too much influence in England when her older sister Mary was on the throne after their father Henry VIII was succeeded by their sickly half brother. Elizabeth thinks Michael Ingolby can do great things. Michael is mostly thinking about one of Elizabeth's ladies in waiting, Cynthia. Soon his mind is on survival when Elizabeth sends him on a voyage to Spain".

Special Effects Artist - Renee Hulbert was responsible for the special effects of 1937 fire over England, the make-up artist is not to be known as I searched to find on the internet and nothing was to be found. 

In this film is was hard to judge the make-up as it was in black and white. But looking at the hairstyles was great in this film as it gave creative technical hairstyles which was Elizabeth thing back when she was the throne. I like the hairstyle which is created in this image I have chosen here as I think it shows royalty and sophistication which was Elizabeth's description on how she was as a queen. The prosthetic nose which was applied onto Elizabeth was applied on with great disguise as there was no sharp edges to the application. 

Research Links - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028872/ , http://www.themakeupgallery.info/character/cham/robson.htm, 

Youtube Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhVQeJDbrnY&list=PLEp3aiMkADcar9fOzS_PukaUMSh3uDs8J 

Image Link - http://static.guim.co.uk/sysimages/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2013/6/25/1372158425031/Fire-Over-England--009.jpg

The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex (1939)

Bette Davis

"A depiction of the love/hate relationship between Queen Elizabeth I and Robert Devereux, the Earl of Essex".

Make-up Artist - Perc Westmore 

By watching clips of the film as I couldn't find the full film online I saw great make-up and hairstyles, In this image I think it shows great skill into wig work and how the curls are a constant size and shape and a lot of time and effort was taken into creating this hairstyle. This film was based on Elizabeth older generation. It shows she applied a lot of make-up as shown in the film, her eyebrows were thinned, pale skinned, minimal make-up on the eyes and red lipstick. This make-up showed the sign of power and that she was in good control of her country. 

Research Links -

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0031826/fullcredits?ref_=tt_ov_st_sm

Youtube Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggGrMd4esfs

Image Links - 

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3HRh3uUgfqi969kzrUntGnwu_CUaiZCYPk-mXCih_5q0vT-zWig39JtYBD6LPwnk6iFrQ9NasgEUHZhhTDs5NSwN3ayISbF-876Tf59G4Pg8Qs_CJeiLWJDkJ9bCGPB0_osHPn0Jx_rw/s1600/Bette+Davis+as+Queen+Elizabeth+I.png

The Virgin Queen (Tv Series 2005)

Anne Marie Duff

"The Virgin Queen explores the full sweep of Elizabeth's life: from her days of fear as a potential victim of her sister's terror; through her great love affair with Robert Dudley; into her years of triumph over the Armada; and finally her old age and her last, enigmatic relationship with her young protégé, the Earl of Essex".

Make-up and Hair Designer - Karen Hartley 

Make-up Artist - Sjaan Gillings, Sophia Burnage, Maureen McGill and Laura Schiavo.

Special Effects Make-up Artist - Chris Lyons and Josh Weston

Prosthetic Make-up Artist - Victoria Bancroft, Neil Gorton and Kristyan Mallett.

Hair Stylist - Maureen McGill and Anna Morena.

Looking at the two images given it shows a great ageing difference. I think the make-up is similar to the film Elizabeth 1997, a very natural young Elizabeth grown into an older and a harsher make-up application a wig is applied to the older Elizabeth and her hair is more of an Elizabeth hairstyle with consist curls, shape and size on the front hairline of the image on the right.

Research Links - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0481459/fullcredits?ref_=tt_cl_sm#cast

Image Link -http://www.bbc.co.uk/staticarchive/8865a2f671c8d8f790266eae971310183e9903b0.jpg

http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/24600000/The-Virgin-Queen-anne-marie-duff-24684745-203-250.jpg

Colour Theory & Wheel

Colour Theory

It is important for a make-up artist to have a good knowledge on colour theory in order to know how colours will effect one another by placing the colour next to the other colour, or the colour could be placed either on-top or underneath the colour and even how the colour will result in when you mix them together.

To make sure we have a clear understanding of the colour theory, we need the colour wheel. The colour wheel is a photographic support in helping us understand the value of colour and the colour theory.

• The colour wheel is allocated into three categories: Primary, Secondary, (or Intermediate), and Tertiary.   Primary: the three primary colours are: red, yellow, and blue. These colours are considered foundation colours because they are used to create all other colours.
•  Secondary (or intermediate): by combining two of the primary colours, three secondary colours are formed. For example, when you mix red with yellow, you will get an orange colour. The Secondary colours are: orange, green, and violet. 
•  Tertiary: the six tertiary colours are made by combining a primary and an adjacent secondary colour. These colours are: yellow – orange, orange – red, red – violet, violet – blue, blue – green and green – yellow.

       Colour Wheel

 Analogous colours are groups of colours that are together on the colour wheel, with one being the dominant colour, which tends to be a primary or secondary colour, and two on either side complementing, which tend to be tertiary.

Complementary colours are sets of colours that contrast with each other supplementary than any other colour, and when placed side-by-side make each other look lighter.

The monochromatic colour structure uses differences in lightness and saturation of one colour. This structure looks clean and elegant. Monochromatic colours go well together, producing a calm effect.

 Monochromatic is not Black and White (Grey-Scale values) which repeatedly gets mistaken. Black and white translation is officially called Achromatic. 

Elizabethan cosmetics and hair products

Elizabethan cosmetics and hair products

In the Elizabethan era it was only the ‘rich’ who were able to have their own cosmetics and show there beauty. Queen Elizabeth was the big inspiration in this era which was to be very pale, have light hair, thin eyebrows and a strong red lipstick every woman in Britain wanted to look like Queen Elizabeth.

There was a clear indication to who was rich and who were poor as the poor worked outside in their fields looking after their crops and animals they would catch a tan which was against the rich look those days as Queen Elizabeth made herself look as pale as she could, also natural hair colour as most lower class people had dark hair and the upper class had light hair which would be coloured.

The make-up products they applied in that era was different to what we apply this era, all our make-up today have gone through tests to make them human/skin friendly where these make-up they used could potentially be poison and damaging to the skin.

To create the white/pale face as we would call a ‘foundation base’ they used the mixture of white lead and vinegar which was poisons to the skin.

Compared to today we have professional hairdressers that apply our hair colouring today or we have box dye with every colour under the book. The only colour Elizabethans were interested was light hair yellow was the most popular colour for them to create this they used a mixture off saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil

.

‘Queen Elizabeth had a wide variety of wigs and hair pieces believed to number over eighty, these were often referred to as periwigs’

http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm

Mascara, eye shadows, eye liner we use these products which are used on the eyes to create shading and colour. The Elizabethans used something called Kohl which was used to darken the eyelashes.

We have many of products that colour, shape and texturize the lips. In the Elizabethan times they used crush beetles called Cochineal, once the beetles were crushed they would create a very strong red colour this was used for lipstick and to colour the cheeks for blusher.

Elizabethan make-up is very different to the make-up we have today we are lucky to have our make-up tested to made sure it was safe for our body, a lot of woman’s face were damaged and had a lot of hair lose with the products they were using as they were un safe.

Meet and Greet and Paper Mask Making (Introduction Week)

Meet and Greet and Paper Mask Making

Today was the first day of attending university my first feelings were mixed between excitements and nervous. We had to produce homework over the summer which was to complete a mood board on how I’d like my life to be in 5 years’ time and to watch a choice of 2 films with the list given and between 300-500 words to write a summary on what the film is about.

We brought ourselves into four groups, in my group was the following; Chelsea, Grace, Amelia and Anna. The four off us had very different options and goals on how we would like to be in 5 years’ time.

We discussed about the films which we all chose (Anna did not get the summer homework so was un-able to complete the discussion). The majority of us had chosen Breakfast at Tiffany’s and The Great Gatsby. I had chosen Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Quadrophenia, after our discussions about the films we presented our mood board on how we would like to be in 5 years’ time.

Amelia

-Amelia’s main dream is to live in Paris and speak fluent in French.

-Have a Japanese Aklta (Breed of dog)

-Amelia is un-sure on what she wants out of this course and hopes to find her career path in the next three years.

Chelsea

-Chelsea’s main dream is to travel the world with her career.

-Her main career path is Beauty Editorial.

-To have longer hair.

-To work with Carla Powell.

Grace

-Grace’s main dream is to work on run way catwalk shows.

-Her main career path is fashion.

-To work with the photographer Luke Woodford.

-To be taller.

Anna

-Anna’s main dream is to style hair for professional fashion shoots.

-Her main career path is hairstyling for fashion.

-Her main ambition is to be happy.

-She would like to discover other things on the course she might be interested for a career.

Myself (Chloe)

-My main dream is to be on film sets competing makeup and some special effects.

-My main career path is hair and makeup for television and film.

-I enjoy watching fantasy films.

-Would off loved to work on the hunger game films.

My Mood Board 

We were now asked to use a paper bag a few materials, colouring pencils glitter and many more stuff to create our paper bags on how we want to look in 5 years time,  I based mine on become a make-up artist for television and films, I used different use of paper and colours to create this and here was my result!

I enjoyed today as I learnt more onto what the course is about and I was able to make new friends. 

Charles Fox Kryolan (Introduction Week)

Charles Fox - Kryolan 

Today we had a lecture with two ladies who work with Charles Fox company to come and talk to us about the variety of Kryolan products they have and what they are used for. There was a variety of fashion make-up to special effects which was really interesting to hear about.

They talked about the history of Kyrolan and how it all began; 

In 1945 Kryolan make-up brand was launched into Berlin's theatres. Kryolan is a German company. 

In 1993 Charles Fox In London is now responsible for the selling of Kryolan products.

1995 Kryolan celebrated there 50th Anniversary.

2014 Kryolan make-up is now used in 30 different countries and is developing more make-up everyday and still one of the best 

selling brands for professional make-up artists. 

I have always had a good make-up results with using Kryolan make-up it's one of my favourite make-up brands and it was great for them to come in and show all the variety of make-up they have.

I was very interested in the special effects make-up they had to offer, this was from blood and casualty make-up to tablets which make you foam out of your mouth.

Once we were shown all the make-up we had the opportunity to purchase some off our own make-up I purchased a Kryolan brush holder, Kryolan brush cleaner, Kryolan Aztec Wheel and Kryolan 3rd Degree A & B Product, I'm very excited to get hold of my new buys!

Over all today had been the best day of the course so far and to hope to here from Charles Fox again.

Illamasqua (Introduction Week)

                                                                     Illamasqua

Today we had a lecture as well as a demonstration of a make-up application and an introduction of Illamasqua itself we then got into groups to create a look using Illamasqua products and to have a story behind our design.

Lecture

I found the lecture really interesting and meeting the team and telling us about their career, how they got there, make-up artist lifestyles and the rules and regulations to being a make-up artist. I took some notes as I was listen and here were some of the tips given throughout the lecture.

·         As well as using a soap bar and warm water to block out eyebrows you can use a glue prickstick which looked and seemed a lot easier.

·         The product ‘Once eye shadow’ is an eye shadow that doesn't move to were ever it is applied.

·         They are an independent British make-up company.

·         Jullian Kynastion owns the company.

·         The Illamasqua make-up artist taught us a technique which is to buff foundation into the skin the make-up artist did not stop buffing the product into the skin her hand was constantly moving.

·         Some products they recommended we get; Embellish, Reflection Pallet, Apocolips and Illamasqua cream eye shadows.

The Illamasqua team then showed us there competition they hold called The Distinction in Make-up Artistry Awards. This is a competition with 4 winners; Non-professional make-up artist, Student make-up artist, Professional make-up artist and the Illamasqua team.

We also watched a small clip of what the day is like and how the make-up artists are feeling, what products their using, how did they come up with the design their creating etc. It got me really excited and thinking that be something I’d like to get involved with.

Overall the lecture was a great experience and something that I took on board and enjoyed I was now excited to get stuck in and create in a group our own design and story behind the make-up.

Practical

We had to get into groups of 4 or 5 I ended up getting into the biggest group with Chelsea, Kyomi, Emma and Slyvia it was nice to meet a couple new friends as well as knowing some already.

We all worked really well as a team and came up with a story behind our make-up which was a fairy from one of the 10 deadly sins and it was envy green which is the fairy of jealously who has opened out of her box Pandora after being trapped in the box for many off years.

We used some great products to come up with the design we created here are the products we used;

• Illamasqua foundation
• Illamasqua green cream eye shadow
• Illamasqua loose powder

We also used some other products such as black mac lipstick, yellow eye shadow from kryolan pallet and snazaroo glitter dust.

                                                                                                                                          

                                                                                                                                                             

 Our Final Design

                                                                    

Model: Kyomi Best

I was really pleased with the result our group had designed, applied and presented, the day with Illamasqua was exciting and interesting and gave me a good insight into what make-up artist life can be all about it was great we could get stuck in and create some work of our own. Our group also won out of group 3 with our make-up which we was all really pleased about.

 Slyvia, Kyomi, Emma, Chelsea and Chloe.